Rogano

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The art deco interiors of this true Glasgow landmark are as sharp and satisfying as they were when they were installed some 73 years ago. Beautiful wood veneers and gesso panels in the oyster bar and main dining room augment a cosseted environment to enjoy a special night out. Expect smart business groups and elegant ladies in pearls. The cuisine is not quite as timeless as the décor. Rogano intentionally targets tradition (hence dishes such as lobster Thermidor) and, for some, this approach may feel out of step with what others do these days with fresh fish and seafood: a heavy crumble crust on a somewhat pallid halibut, for example, or the advertised spaghetti of vegetables amounting to little more than a carrot julienne under a rather ordinary turbot parcel. On a more positive (and modern) note, a starter of duck and foie gras terrine successfully mixes textures and integrates east Asian seasoning. Oysters Rockefeller are presented a bit rustically but don't suffer for it. The service is typically assured and, ultimately, whatever the critics say, Rogano doesn't have to apologise to the majority of its clientele – judging from the crowds on an average night, they're satisfied. Also, keep in mind the more moderately priced Café Rogano in the basement, which, by some accounts, receives even more positive customer comments.

• High point: Those first-class Cunard liner interiors
• Low point: Those first-class Cunard liner prices