Rogano

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Glasgow’s oldest restaurant was fitted out in Art Deco style in homage to the Clyde-built Queen Mary in 1935. It looks expensive and it is. The ambiance is luxurious and the décor glorious – maple and walnut veneers, ebony, chrome and mirrors. It remains a truly glamorous destination with much of the menu as classic as the décor with a few twists. The eponymous fish soup is a smooth velvety shellfish-rich bowl with a pernod kick and croutons, parmesan shavings and intense rouille on the side, while a brandade with Arbroath smokie is light blend of smoked haddock with olive oil and milk - topped with a garnish of intense pea shoots. Mains include timeless lobster thermidor, sole meunière and a few meat dishes. Seared scallops are enhanced by a squat lobster lasagne in its own bisque. Most of the excellent puddings can be sampled in the Rogano Grand Dessert - miniatures of orange and cardamon brulée, cherry and chocolate parfait, peanut butter and jam tart and the retro condensed milk ice-cream. It’s a fine dining experience with serious French wines, polished silver, crisp linen and efficient staff. After recent accusations of hit and miss food, Rogano seems back on form. For those who want glamour without the financial pain, lunch and pre-theatre is a simpler menu at a fraction of the price while the popular café downstairs offers a lighter bistro menu. And there’s still few more Glasgow-with-style experiences than sitting in the bar with the rich and the wannabes ordering oysters and Champagne.

• High point: Timeless glamour
• Low point: Comes at a price