Gamba

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Gamba celebrates its tenth anniversary in 2008, and one would be hard-pressed to name a more consistently excellent, top-end restaurant in Glasgow over the same time period. It's not only that chef and co-owner Derek Marshall doesn't ever settle for tired, tasteless fish from the markets, nor is it solely that he displays a deft hand in the preparation of anything from bream to scallops. Furthermore, the goodies he deploys to accompany the main ingredients are often equally wonderful. Take, for example, the sweet crayfish tails (in a salty soya sauce) that are served with a tangy lime and chive oil-marinated fillet of halibut. Cornish dressed crab may have a lightly curried flavour, topped with a bit of unadvertised caviar. Meaty monkfish, with hints of a char-grilled essence, might be well-complemented by a cream sauce with wild mushrooms and puy lentils. Puddings continue the standards, such as a white chocolate and coffee cheesecake. The balance of flavours, indeed textures, is almost always spot on. Yes, evening à la carte is priced at the high end – and unapologetically so. Still, house wine, such as an organic French Viognier, offers sound value at about £18, while the three-course Saturday luncheon (or daily pre-theatre) at a little less is an equal bargain.

• High point: Quality raw ingredients
• Low point: An unusual delay before the first course

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