The Waterfront Wine Bar and Grill

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• Average price 2 courses:
   £8 (lunch)
   £22 (evening meal)
• House wine: £12 per bottle

• High point: A lively building full of character
• Low point: Easy-going waiters occasionally distracted
• Food served: Mon-Sun noon-3.30pm, 6-10pm
• Bar open: Sun-Thu noon-11pm; Fri/Sat noon-midnight
• Private dining: 50/12
• Open since: 1982
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Originally a waiting room for steamship travellers, this delightful bistro has all the intimate charm of an earlier era. Food can be ordered and eaten in the bar area, a lair of snug booths and seafaring paraphernalia, or from the more spacious and contemporary restaurant which is housed in a glass-walled conservatory overlooking the Water of Leith. The seasonal menu has recently been condensed to offer the most popular dishes, sticking with fresh classics - oysters, mussels, scallops and salmon - plus a few inspired staples and daily selections such as a deep-fried hake fillet with home-cut chips and minted peas. A creamy Cullen skink makes a hearty starter and is packed with thick, smoky haddock and flakes of cod, while the Waterfront special fish-cakes come in a crusty shell with a fluffy centre of punchy, rich flavours. A main of sea bass fillet is perfectly handled, the light lemony flesh contrasting nicely with a vivid home-made salsa verdi, and the beautifully prepared Finnan Haddie is bolstered by slices of course black pudding and a chunk of velvety brie. The Waterfront has an informal, friendly vibe with easy-going waiters who know their food and wine, and there's always something satisfying about watching diligent chefs slaving over a fiery grill, working up their creations in a semi-open kitchen at the back of the room.