No 28 Charlotte Square

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The ornate and beautiful three-storey townhouse the National Trust for Scotland inhabits just off the mêlée of Princes Street might suggest a rather stiff atmosphere. However, natural light from the huge sash windows and modern, if understated, fittings combined with some genial waiting staff all add up to a welcoming space for a sophisticated, if genteel, lunch date. Kicking off with soup, sturdy triple-decker sandwiches and panini with reliable fillings such as roast beef and horseradish, the menu is small but considered. Stuffed mushroom filled with garlic, herbs and cheddar is a welcome menu addition. The oatmeal-crusted salmon with mushroom and barley risotto is a brave failure – on this visit there is a great combination of ingredients but the salmon ends up too dry, something even the musky, herby risotto can't redeem. More importantly for some though, there are a number of very fine options to wash down with a cup of coffee. Grab a doorstep-sized slice of Victoria sponge or some of the hand-made shortbread and you'll have all you'd ever need of a lunchtime. The cleverly situated gift shop stock around the room means you can ponder which photography book or cultural guide to pick while waiting on your meal.

• High point: Browse for a book while you eat
• Low point: Easy to miss