La Vallée Blanche

Haute Hillhead

Jan Zeschky uncovers a serious fine-dining player arriving in an unexpected location

When rationalising business-speak began to creep into the way things were run at étain restaurant in Princes Square a couple of years back, chef Neil Clark knew it was time to pack up his pans. Not one to compromise on his creativity, he left the award-winning French-Scottish restaurant to its fate of corporate rebranding. Now, almost two years after its closure, he has resurfaced – together with most of his original team – in the West End, in a little brick building at the top of Byres Road that’s better known for housing the local branch of Fopp.

With fine French cuisine a scarce commodity beyond the city centre, Clark spotted an opportunity in Hillhead and, if La Vallée Blanche’s early form is anything to go by, his judgement is spot on. Formerly a collection of fusty antique stalls, the room has been transformed into something that suggests the Alpine lodge hinted at in the name, its calm interior heavy with dark wood panelling and red furnishings, and low-lit by a clutch of stag-antler lamps and flickering candles lining the long window. What’s more immediately noticeable, however, is the honest welcome and infectious warmth of the staff: effortlessly professional, always concerned, elaborate (and passionate) in their descriptions of the locally sourced produce and assembled dishes; yet at the same time almost invisible, with glasses magically filling themselves, empty plates disappearing. Clearly a keen understanding of the whole operation runs throughout the entire team, and this contributes a great deal to the relaxed atmosphere within.

Menus range from a lunch list offering year-round classics such as onion soup and steak frites, to a concise, seasonal à la carte that boasts more inventive Gallic dishes and barely puts a foot wrong. (The all-French wine list is also short and undoubtedly well chosen, but, starting at £22.50 a bottle, a little on the dear side). Starters might include a tartlet with a light, almost mousse-like morel filling, the subtle earthy flavours of which slowly intensify across the palate. Seared scallops may be becoming something of a ubiquitous seafood option in middle to upper market restaurants, but teaming these fresh, delicate morsels with astringent apple and black pudding puree gives them new vibrancy.

The mains see Clark’s kitchen hit full stride. Standouts include an exquisite assiette of pork sourced from Ramsay’s of Carluke: firm loin, tender, shredding belly and flaky, moist cheek, served with wilted savoy cabbage and the simple meaty flavours of the pan juices. Another attractively presented plate is scattered with roasted chestnuts, garlic cloves and baby onions, marinated olives and crispy-fried bay leaves, all brought together by a stack of tender, ruby red slices of gamey wood pigeon breast – a feast of flavours. The pastry chef maintains this sense of playfulness with a moist-but-firm poached pear teamed with delicate panacotta and an extraordinary ice-cream flavoured with ground tonka bean, which reveals woody complexities that would have sommeliers gushing.

It’s these subtle, innovative details and the superlative service that marks La Vallée Blanche as one to watch in the fine-dining stakes.

360 Byres Road, Glasgow, 0141 334 3333
Traditional yet innovative French restaurant
Average two-course evening meal £26

More: French, La Vallée Blanche, Neil Clark, Scottish, Eat (Life & Style)

Comments

1. Philip Munro, Troon – 2 April 2008, 3:51pmReport

One of the best evenings ever spent in a restaurant in Glasgow,well done keep up the good work.

2. Marie Milligan, Glasgow – 11 April 2008, 4:31pmReport

I blinked and they opened up a new restaurant where the antique market used to be next door to Fopp! I felt obliged to give it a whirl as I only live round the corner.

2 courses for £11.95 seemed a wise move to entice new diners at low costs as the usual prices are approx. £20 for mains. £5 for a glass of wine seemed pricey to the untrained wine connoisseur but the quality soothed that.

Top restaurant quality food with faultless service at discount prices. Atmosphere would suite those looking for a romantic tete-a-tete.

3. Susiecat, Glasgow – 17 April 2008, 10:26amReport

One of the most disappointing evenings out I have had in a long time.
If you are unfortunate to be siting in the middle of the restaurant there are blow heaters which make you feel as if you are sitting in a car with the heater on. When we mentioned the uncomfortable heat to the waiter he proceded to simulate fanning my mother with his hands. We asked to be move three times and were completely ignored until finally the manageress came over and told us that she had a seating plan that she had to stick to ( by the time we left at 9.30 there were still tables round the side of the room).

The food was very average the Bouillebaisse contained virtually no liquid and a duck that was meant to be medium was very well done.

The house white wine at £22 was again disappointing.

I would not recommend this restaurant to any one and I found the manageress to be rude and unprofessional to such an extent that it prompted me to write this comment and the food is not worth the prices that they are looking to charge.

4. Cat in a hat, Westender – 27 April 2008, 11:22amReport

We popped in to see what all the fuss was about and we were not disappointed. We opted for twinkles (orange juice and soda) instead of wine and it didn't cost the earth. The risotto starter I could have had as a main. The mains which we tried were open beetroot ravioli, didn't really get it....large squares of pasta, bits of beetroot and goats cheese and some nice spring veg oh and horseradish, great flavours, just why not closed ravioli as we know and love? The sea bass tasted fab but came balanced on potato which was in a sea of oil unfortunately, less is more for that ingredient. The desserts were amazing, I was convinced that my rhubarb crumble was IT until I tried the banana dish OMG indecision - one was better than granny made and the other was amazingly tasty like bannoffee but looked like an art installation.
All in all I'd recommend it and very affordable with the pre-theatre options.

5. John, Glasgow – 30 April 2008, 4:00pmReport

I liked the atmosphere in the place, and found the staff attentive and knowledgeable. The food was vastly overpriced in the evening and the portions miniscule to the extent that I was hungry when I left despite a £89.00 bill [and only one glass of wine!].

The day menu seems a better option.

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